How To Wear Relaxed-Fit Trousers

It’s not hard to remember a time when wide-leg trousers were considered one of those beyond-the-pale pieces that fashion designers periodically tried to foist on sceptical menfolk, perhaps out of boredom, or “for banter”.

Sure, wide-leg trousers made an impact on the runway. Okay, so they created a striking silhouette. And yes, they had swagger. But off the runway? They were an unacceptable breach of breeches conduct. Sheer pantaloon-acy, to be given an equally wide berth.

But as you perform your umpteenth series of pulse squats to squeeze into your skinny-fit jeans, or dislocate your ankle to get your foot through that drainpipe leg opening, do you ever stop to think that there might be another way? That it might be time to broaden your horizons?

Menswear’s brains trust certainly thinks there’s room for a roomier trouser style. Many of today’s biggest trends prefer a wider leg: street-friendly skatewear, pleated mid-century styles and voluminous tailoring are all generous and flattering below the belt.

The Rise Of Wide-Leg Trousers

Revolutionary though they may seem, wide-leg trousers are not exactly a novel concept. ‘Oxford bags’ as they became known date back to the 1920s, when stunting undergrads at the eponymous university wore trousers with hems of up to 40 inches in circumference – and looked like dons. Frank Sinatra did wide-leg trousers his way in the 1950s, as did Marlon Brando. And David Bowie did frankly whatever the hell he wanted in the 1970s – which included wide-leg trousers.

“Yes, but Bowie was a sartorial extraterrestrial,” you cry. True, but even for us style earthlings, wide-leg trousers are more wearable than you probably imagine. They are undoubtedly a statement – but that means you don’t really need to try that hard.

Thankfully, fashion is cyclical, and wide-leg trousers are getting another long-overdue play. After years of spray-on oppression, high-end fashion houses and streetwear labels alike are freeing men from their stonewash straightjacket. And crucially, dissenting designers challenging the constricting doctrine are practising what they preach by wearing them, proving that they look unusually good in real life too.

Marlon Brando

4 Ways To Wear Wide-Leg Trousers

None of this is to say that to be fashion-forward, you need to run a belt through two tents. Yes, the runway end of the trouser fit spectrum has lurched dramatically flappier. But that means that, for those who’ve spent the last decade peeling their trousers off every evening, it’s time to inch up into something roomier. Here are four ways to pump up the volume.

Casual

For those new to the relaxed-leg fit, casual looks are the easiest way to experiment. “Start off with a classic colour or fabric, such as navy or black in cotton or a wool-blend,” says Mr Porter style director Olie Arnold. “Denim is also an easy way into the trend.”

To balance out all that extra down below, think simple. “Wear with a well-fitting crew-neck T-shirt or Henley. Many wider trousers have traditional front pleats and a higher waist; tuck the top in to highlight this feature.” It’s a move approved by Jude Law, back in his Dickie Greenleaf days.

Smart-Casual

It’s not just the cut of clothes that has been gradually relaxing over the last few years. Dress codes have also loosened up, making relaxed-leg trousers an excellent way to nail everyday smart-casual.

The trick here is to keep everything else simple so that the trousers are the only wild card in the deck. Think tonal shirts, roll necks and muted bombers. Not only will you feel confident enough to wear them that way, but you’ll also be doing ‘a thing’ without really doing all that much.

Smart

All that extra material necessitates a nipped-in waist, whether in the form of a cropped jacket or a tailored one, to prevent you ballooning. Luckily, looser-fitting trousers can work in business-casual offices, provided you make up for the more relaxed fit by dialling up the styling. “A well-cut pair of pleated trousers can bring a rakish touch to a formal look by pairing with a deconstructed blazer, a crisp shirt and some polished Derby shoes,” says Arnold.

When wearing a blazer with relaxed-fit trousers, you can also alleviate the impact by rolling the hems, so the trousers swing, rather than puddle. “A slightly shorter pair of wide-leg trousers in black can be ideal for the office when worn with a tucked in slim shirt, to balance the voluminous shape.”

11 Free Ways To Upgrade Your Summer Wardrobe

If the fashion world had its way, you’d be replacing your wardrobe every three months. But your bank balance – and the planet – won’t thank you for it. Yet, read between the lines and you’ll find that last season’s must-haves often reappear, in the new season’s guise.

Sure, you could spend your hard-earned on brand new jeans that look five years old. Or you could ‘new season’ them yourself by adding a few rips or even turning them from dark to light at home.

Here are some free ways to upgrade your summer style without dropping a dime.

Have A Clear Out

Sometimes, taking away is just as good as adding to a wardrobe. Particularly when it’s crammed full of clothes that don’t fit, are damaged, or aren’t quite right for your skin tone, body type or lifestyle.

A small capsule wardrobe of high-quality, well-fitting garments is far better than one crammed full of impulse buys. So, start by having a clear out. Aim to keep only items worn regularly and that can be mixed-and-matched with other pieces. These will usually take the form of classic menswear staples (plain T-shirts, jeans, shirts) in neutral or earthy colourways (black, white, navy, grey, brown).

Anything damaged that can be salvaged, set aside and get to work on that after. Otherwise throw it away or donate it – you’ll be left with a solid selection of versatile basics that will not only make you look your best, but will save precious minutes when getting dressed in the morning too.

Learn To Layer

Look at most modern style icons and what do you notice? Yes, they’re usually stinking rich and have a personal stylist. But also, they don’t always own as many clothes as it first appears. Take Kanye, for example: garish statement pieces aside, he has a few plain T-shirts, some fail-safe hoodies, a handful of ripped jeans and a couple of choice jackets.

What sets his looks apart – whether you’re a fan or not – is his mastery of layering, which can make even the most worn-out (sometime literally) pieces look new.

It’s easy to get stuck in a style rut, working through the same tired outfit combinations each week. To stop the rot, set aside some time to really take stock of your wardrobe and come up with alternative matches for each piece – you can even use apps like Mod Man to keep track of the possibilities.

To produce next-level looks, try advanced techniques such as reverse layering, which involves wearing pieces that go from long to short the further they get away from the body (e.g. a longline T-shirt under a cropped jacket), or playing with necklines (e.g. a shirt collar peeking out over a bomber or a hoodie layered under a lightweight mac).

Roll Your Sleeves

Been dodging the dumbbells? Take Tom Ford’s advice and cuff shirt sleeves to give your arms a visual workout. “Fold until it hits the widest point of your arm,” says Sarah Gilfillan, a stylist who has worked on campaigns for the likes of Topman and Fred Perry. Mid-tricep is the sweet spot, then fasten with a couple of stitches so it doesn’t slip down.

On which note, nothing kills the nonchalant vibe of rolled long sleeves like having to constantly fiddle with them throughout the day. So borrow from the marines to ensure they stay at attention. Unbutton then roll the cuff back “about the width of four fingers,” says Gilfillan.

Straighten up the edges, then repeat four-to-five times, until the roll hits mid-bicep. The finished result looks even better if paired with a marine’s physique, naturally.

Add Black Polish To Brown Shoes

As Italian as adding cooking water to pasta sauce, this tip can give a pair of old brogues a burnished appearance similar to a £1,000 pair of Berluti’s. “The trick is to add several thin layers of polish and buff between each,” says Tom Beecroft, of shoe care firm The Jaunty Flaneur.

Once you’ve locked the technique, embrace the rainbow – try dark brown polish on tan brogues, or even a deep red wax, which “can ‘antique’ brown shoes and add depth to the shine of black ones,” says Beecroft.

But remember: the aim is to add detail, not apply a new paint job. “Focus on the heel and toe cap – you’ll achieve a stronger patina here,” says Laura Haynes, from men’s personal styling service The Chapar. “Let the polish dry for around 10 minutes, then buff with a cloth to remove some, but not all of it, to leave beautifully unique shoes.” Reapply whenever the shoes lack a little sprezzatura.

Lose Your Socks

It’s a classic summer move. “But I can’t stress enough that losing the socks doesn’t actually mean losing the socks,” says Haynes. Rather than going calfskin-on-skin, buffer with a pair of invisible socks, which absorb sweat and stop blisters.

You’ll also need a decent shoe rotation. Leather absorbs sweat, but any other fabric becomes a breeding ground for bacteria.

At the end of the day, after taking the shoes off give them 10 minutes to air out, says Beecroft, then slip in some shoe trees. Unvarnished cedar absorbs moisture (and smells) and helps the shoes retain their shape.

Brine Your T-shirts

T-shirt nirvana is finding that soft, broken-in style that wears like it’s seen multiple decades. But the same effect can be achieved without the wait.

Dunk a top into a bowl full of lukewarm water, then add half a cup of salt and three teaspoons of baking soda. Let it soak for five days, and the cocktail will break down the T-shirt’s fibres like years of moshing.

Distress Your Jeans

Ripped jeans were as unexpected a 1990s return as Pokémon. Unlike Pokémon, however, we think distressed denim has some staying power. The grungier alternative to all that heavy raw selvedge is softer, lighter and comes with in-built ventilation. The off-the-rack stuff also often packs three-figure price tags. The wise man takes matters into his own hands.

Start by running a razor over the jeans to scuff and soften areas of the fabric. For larger gashes, back the jeans with a piece of wood and cut a small hole with a knife, then tease the edges apart until a narrow rip appear (unless Axl Rose, don’t tear the whole thing at once). Wash to soften the raw edges, then tease out a few extra fibres with tweezers.

Make A Shirt A Jacket

Most guy’s wardrobes have two settings: shorts or overcoats. But unpredictable climates demand more nuance. Solution? Use casual shirts as makeshift jackets over T-shirts and vests.

“Camp collared shirts work nicely,” says Gilfillan. It’s a look that speaks of hazy Havana summers, so is best accessorised with some age. Wear unbuttoned and open over a white crew neck tee, with a worn-in leather belt.

And remember that grunge thing we talked about? You can steal more from Kurt Cobain’s wardrobe. In recent seasons, checked shirts have doubled up as belts, to create a layered, ‘I’m with the band’ look that’s best harmonised with those just-ripped jeans and a worn-in T-shirt.

Stonewash Dark Jeans

We don’t have a vendetta against raw denim, honest. It’s simply the case that lighter washes are much more suitable when the mercury rises.

The T-shirt brining method mentioned earlier can be adapted to give winter jeans a blue-sky update. This time add three cups of salt and leave to soak for a full week. Once softened, wring them dry and rub with a pumice stone to strip away the indigo. What’s left will be authentic stonewash, no Delorean required.

Swap Clothes With Friends

Of course, this is a list of free upgrades so buying new clothes is strictly off-limits. But that’s not to say new items can’t be added to your rotation with a little sartorial nous.

Swapping clothes with friends (as opposed to stealing them or ‘forgetting’ to return them – don’t be that guy) is the easiest way to get ‘new’ clothes without spending a penny.

Hosting a wardrobe exchange – where each person in a group brings a set number of items and then trades a piece for a piece – may sound like what you do right before you braid each other’s hair, but there’s no shame in it. Nor is there in doing it one-on-one or agreeing to swap clothes for a set period of time.

Just make sure you trust your mate not to scuff your shoes or be sick on your suit.

6 Mistakes You’re Making With Your Sunglasses

Shockingly enough, the sole purpose of sunglasses is to protect your eyes from the sun. But while it’s tempting to settle on one pair and be done with it, your cycling goggles are simply not fit for an afternoon down the beer garden.

Because let’s face it, a poor choice of shades can scorch your look, as well as your retinas, wherever you are in the world. So, we spoke to the experts to shine some light on the shadiest sunglasses mistakes in the book (lest you ever rock wraparounds poolside again).

Your Sunglasses Don’t Match Your Style

If you boast a signature style that requires just one pair of shades, lucky you. But since most men’s 9-5 is far removed from weekend pursuits, several pairs are necessary to flit between the office and off-duty.

“Sunglasses are all about the way they make your face look, so find a pair that suits your face shape and your wardrobe,” says British designer Oliver Spencer. “They should sit just as well with your suit as they do with your swimming trunks, and everything in-between.”

That means keeping your aviators for the beach, your tortoiseshell wayfarers for the commute and your Oakleys for your next triathlon.

You’re Wearing Them Indoors

Sadly, rap music videos aren’t real life. So that rules out wearing sunglasses indoors (and dousing strippers in dollar bills).

“Unless you have a medical condition, a starring role in The Matrix or go by the name of Anna Wintour, you have no business wearing sunglasses indoors,” says Style.com’s senior menswear editor, Rob Nowill. “It’s wildly pretentious, and downright cheesy. What’s more, it’s bad manners to neglect eye contact with people you’re talking to.”

You’re Not Wearing Protection

In the summer months, half-naked bodies aren’t the only things you shouldn’t stare at. Locking eyes with the sun itself can seriously compromise your eyesight if you’re not wearing the right kind of shades.

“Many eye conditions are triggered by excessive exposure to sun rays, so it’s important to invest in quality protection,” says Omar Hassan, head of professional services at Vision Express. “Sunglasses with a UVA and UVB block will reduce the risk, so always be on the lookout for the CE, British Standard or UV 400 mark as this indicates adequate UV protection.”

You Assume A Particular Style Suits Your Face

Wide-leg trousers may be en vogue, but not all builds can pull them off. The same rule applies to those reflective round lens sunglasses you’ve been eyeing.

“Shapes are different sizes and suit different frames, so mix it up and see what works best for you,” says Mark de Lange, founder of sunglasses brand Ace & Tate. “As a general rule, a rounder face tends to suit a square frame and a squarer face tends to suit rounder frames, with varying degrees in between.”

You’ve Got Your Dimensions Wrong

You wouldn’t buy a suit that doesn’t fit, so don’t do the same with your shades. Most sunglasses are marked with measurements to give you a greater idea of how they’ll sit.

“Frame sizes are important as each person’s head has slightly different dimensions, so consider your face width and then factor in the main features,” says David Lochhead, co-founder of British spectacle designer Finlay & Co.

Most sunglasses will have three measurements hidden inside the frame: the first for lens width, the second for the gap between lenses and the width of the nose bridge, and the final offering the length of the arm.” As a general rule, the overall width of the frame should roughly match the widest part of your face.

You Still Own A Pair Of Novelty Sunglasses

Post-Freshers’ Week, novelty sunglasses of any kind are off-limits. And even then, they were still pretty lame.

“It’s inevitable that many people will opt for an inexpensive pair of novelty sunglasses, but these don’t effectively protect your eyes,” says Joana Tandoc, the in-house optician at Swiss spectacle outfit Acuitis. “Not only do they look cheap, these sunglasses don’t offer any real UV protection, especially if you’re partaking in watersports in which extra light is reflected and absorbed by the eyes.” Plus, you’ll look like a dick even before you fall off the jet-ski.